Guide To Remove Roll/Operator Door Panel

Guide, To Remove Your Door

Disclaimer: This guide is for a older 90’s Sliding Glass Door that was manufactured/distributed by MI Home Products. This door was an aluminum frame white door some had white grids between the glass and some older ones had no grids between the glass. This same door was also manufactured/distributed by Capital and Remington sold by Stock Building Supply here in Georgia. Some aspects of these instructions my not pertain to your particular door. But all doors that won’t lift up and pull out to the inside of your house are basically the same procedure to remove the Roll/Operator Panel. Remove the Fixed/Stationary panel then Remove the Roll/Operator panel to the outside of the house. Sliding Glass Patio Doors are HEAVY most 36 inch X 76 inch doors weigh 90 lbs You should secure help before attempting to remove your patio door. A large door panel (30, 36, 48 inches wide) even though it weighs upwards of 90 to 115 pounds will act like a kite in heavy winds 15 mph or above and will be very hard to handle by yourself. If you remove your Fixed/Stationary panel and move it to the side out of the day, make sure your lean it at a good angle 35 to 45 degrees against the house or lay it on it's side on windy day. If you are working on a Patio with open rail pickets, you should lay it on it's side and place a heavy object in front of it so it doesn't blow over in a wind gust.
Also PLEASE BE SAFE when working on your sliding glass door. Use your Safety Glasses, Good Slip Resistant Gloves and Suction Cup and most important, keep the wife, kids, dogs and cats out of the way.
Also if your thinking that your afraid your going to break the glass then YOU shouldn't even read an further. You should find a Hadyman and give them a link to this help section If your afraid of it it can and will hurt you. We have actually broke the glass on 1 out of Hundreds and Hundreds of doors. Of course we have repaired Hundreds and Hundreds of doors and we make it look very simple when we work on them.
Don't try to do a 2 Man job with only 1 Man.
I know you have been watching many tons of you tube videos about how to make it slide, when it should actually roll, how to replace you wheel and not the assembly, how one man lays it on it's side and takes the long stile off instead of the door bottom, how I see many putting assemblies back in their door that don't even look similar to what came out and so on and on. Here we have the Book and the Pictures to do it like it should be done. Work Smart Not Hard.

The very first thing you need to do is (CLICK HERE) to open/download/print the MI Home Products Series 950 Sliding Glass Door manual. I highly suggest you print out this 5 page manual so you can follow along with what I am explaining to you.


Now that you have downloaded and printed out the 5 page manual you can look at Sheet 2 of 5 and 3 of 5 to see that this Operator door comes out to the outside of the house under Panel Loading and Installing at the top of the page #1. Positioning Panels Into Their Tracks. You will also notice that the Fixed/Stationary panel has to be removed first, before you can get the Roll/Operator panel out. This is very common on most patio doors. Yours may not look exactly as the MI Manual shows but the basic principal is the same, remove stationary and then the operator panel. Your door even though it may not look exactly as the one in the manual will have about 5 clips that will hold the Fixed/Stationary panel in place. It should have clips on the door jamb and some sort of “L” brackets on the end of the door at top and bottom .
Once you have removed all of the brackets and clips that hold the stationary door in place you will need to slide the Fixed/Stationary panel out about 4 inches so you can grab the door to pick it up and pull it out at the bottom and sit it down so you can move it to a safe location out of the way.
DO NOT GRAB the vertical door stile and pull on it as you will most likely pull it off the glass and you will then have to remove the frame from the glass and reinstall frame around the glass. We recommend you get a "Suction Cup" (CLICK HERE) from us or somewhere else ( Tool Rental Store ) near you, to assist you in pulling a Fixed/Stationary panel out of the jamb on the wall.
You should remember that your stationary door has been stuck into the jamb for 10 to 40 or more years and it is most likely stuck pretty well in the wall. If your stationary panel seems to be really stuck in the jamb and you have used a suction cup on the glass and still can't snatch it out from the wall, you can use a stiff putty knife to assist you in getting the stationary panel un-stuck from the jamb. This should be done in a specific way from a specific location on your door panel as not to put direct pressure on your glass. You Should (CLICK HERE) to see where to and not to pry on your stationary door panel.

Now that you have hopefully removed the Fixed/Stationary Panel and moved it to a safe location protected from blowing over and busting it.

Go back to the MI Manual Sheet 4 of 5 Parts Page you have printed out and look for Part Number 75081 SILL INSULATOR (it's white) and Part Number 81253 WEEP HOUSING ASSEMBLY (it's black). Once you have located these two parts the SILL INSULATOR is a white plastic strip that goes from jamb to jamb across the entire length of the side of the operator channel in front of the Roll/Operator Door and it has to be removed before operator panel will come out. On each side of the door sill you will see the Part Number 80082 WEEP HOUSING ASSEMBLY that essentially holds the ends of the SILL INSULATOR down. It has to be removed to remove the SILL INSULATOR. Study the drawing of the WEEP HOUSING ASSEMBLY and you can see there is a clip that pulls out so the assembly will come out also. When you get the WEEP ASSEMBLY removed you can now take a pry bar or large screw driver and pop up an end of the SILL INSULATOR and remove it by just pulling it up and off the channel edge.

Before you attempt to remove the Roll/Operator Panel You should already have a Sturdy Picnic Table or a Set of Sturdy Saw Horse's (Plastic Home Depot $27 Saw Horse's are what we use.) set up just in front of the door your removing about 4 feet away. So when you stand it up TWO people (one on each side) can pick it up lay it down slowly on what ever you decide to use to lay it flat down on. If your using cheap HD plastic saw horse's it's perfectly fine to just lay it down on the glass.
You should now be able to pick up the Roll/Operator Panel and pull it out at the bottom over the Sill Plate and sit it down on the patio floor.
CAUTION PLEASE READ: Operator panel is heavy (85 lbs or more) and also top heavy, make sure your holding it securely when removing it from the frame. It will tend to be top heavy because when you pick it up and pull it out at the bottom it is top leaning in towards the inside of the house and now, unlike the Fixed/Stationary Panel because the Roll/Operator was behind it it couldn't fall into the house. Now the Roll/Operator being top heavy might want to fall into the house onto your expensive glass coffee table because there is nothing behind it but your wife, kids, 80 inch flat screen and coffee table. That might take and ambulance and two 16 Gallon Wet Vac's to clean up if your not holding it so it can't fall into the house. That's why you should have TWO PEOPLE working on a Sliding Glass Door. If your using a GOOD suction cup, you could even let your wife make sure it's not falling into the house when removing unless she is only 5' and 110 lbs which is also most likely close to the weight of the door.

Now that you have the Roll/Operator door laying on a table or saw horse's, It's time to get the roller assemblies out. Notice I said Roller Assemblies, Not Roller. These door have roller assemblies, that have an inner and outer housing, that hold it in the door, has adjusting screw to adjust door height and hold rollers tight in them. If you remove your door and find a single roller laying the the Sill channel or falls out the door bottom before you get the door laid down on your table, you should just ignore that roller because the only thing it will help you figure out is the diameter of that roller. These doors had about 4 or 5 different roller assemblies in them, even though they look similar, their not. We carry all of them in stock at Capital Roller Assemblies. They can be held in place in the door bottom with Rail Lock, Tab Mount, No Tab Mount and also have 1 inch and some 1 1/8 inch wheels. So getting the correct roller assembly for your door is most important thing to do. You will also find that if your door has been not rolling as it should and has simply been sliding metal to metal as most of these are after the first 5 or less years and has a lb of Crisco to keep it sliding, your rail that the wheels roll on is also destroyed.

It's time to get the bottom of the door panel off and get the old roller assemblies out and figure out which ones you have in your door. Here is a LINK CLICK HERE TO YOUTUBE VIDEO showing how to properly remove the door bottom and remove the Roller Assemblies from the bottom rail of your door. There are Vinyl and Wood Frame Doors that you can't remove the door bottom and the roller assemblies are nothing like the door roller assemblies you have.
If your door has an Aluminum Frame and 4 screws 1 on each corner of the frame of the door panel then it comes apart and wheels come out just like the ones in the Video. There are only a few Aluminum Frame Patio Doors that the roller assembly comes right out the bottom of the door and if your door is even close to the door described here the you don't have one of those doors.



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