Remove Roller Assembly Find Correct One
I am going to try to help you get your roller assembly out so you will be able to see what type roller you have. In this case I lucked out and this door has the manufacturer name (Peachtree Door) and the series (Citation II) that should make it much easer to locate a roller assembly.
First get your operating door panel out and lay it on it's side. Then locate the screw that holds it together on the bottom. There will be one for each side.
Then remove the screw with a #3 phillips head screwdriver. Most all of these doors have a large size screw but you may be able to get it out with a standard #2 phillips head screwdriver. Most of the time the screw will be very rusted and it might try to round of the screw head, if that happens take your screwdriver put it in the head of the screw and hit it a few times rather hard so it will force the screwdriver down into the groves in the screw. Then you most likely will be able to remove the screw easily. If you round off the head it will be near impossible for you to get the screw out. This particular door has the screw recessed down in a hole and would be very difficult to get out if head is rounded or stripped off. I got my screws out. There is another screw on the other side just like this one.
NOTE: If you can't get the screw out and it gets rounded of then use a 1/4" drill bit and actually drill right through the head of the screw MAKE sure the screw head only, do not go all the way through the aluminum door frame. After you get it all apart then you can fight with the screw. Most likely getting it out with pliers then.
Once you get the screws out all you need to do is get the bottom of the door off. Remember your glass is tempered and very tough to a direct hit with an object, but the edges of tempered glass is very delicate and the wrong move could result in a pile off glass at your feet. So NEVER pry or HIT the edges of your glass. NEVER sit bare glass edges down on a hard surface such as concrete with out a towel or blanket under the edges. NEVER NEVER EVER put the weight of the door or glass itself on any corner of the bare glass. You will end up with a pile of glass at your feet. Start off by using a block of wood such as a piece of 2X4 and gently start knocking the bottom off the door. Place the block of wood on the top edge of the door bottom and gently knock the bottom loose on one end. Once you get the bottom moving flip the door over and get the other side coming loose. Then slowly work each side loose until you can grab it with your hand and finish pulling the bottom off.
Note in this picture the rubber seal is coming off stuck to the door bottom, that okay just don't break it. Just keep pulling it out of the frame as you go.
Just slowly work the rubber seal out and keep pulling the door bottom off
Once the bottom is off just work the rubber seal back on the glass. Make sure when you lay the door against a wall or what ever, don't stand it up too straight, lay it a a slight angle because the wind will blow it over and you could end up with a pile of glass.
Now pull the roller assemblies out of each end. Just so happens this roller assembly was held in place with the door frame screws. Roller assemblies can be held in place several ways. Don't be intimidated, just look at them and you will see what needs to come loose. Some brands clip in and it looks like you will need to actually spread the bottom the door apart a little to get then out. You actually do need to spread it apart a little on some doors. Some doors the roller assembly will be screwed in through the top edge of the door bottom.
Now that the roller assembly is out give it a good once over and clean it up so you can see it good. I am lucky, I have the manufacturer name (Peachtree Door)and series of the door. So I can do a search under manufacturer name.To see what the manufacturer results were, (CLICK HERE). Then close that window and come back here. The closest match on the manufacturer page was the D1609 for this door that I could see. Keep reading on....
If you do not have the manufacture name measure the roller and housing width and look through the categories for roller size and housing width and compare. We have 289 roller assemblies and if you get overwhelmed simply Email Us a picture with some roller and housing measurements and we will help you locate your roller assembly.
Here is the picture of the D1609 roller assembly. Just because it looks like it does not mean it is it. make some measurements before you purchase this roller assembly. The description says
1-1/4" Steel B.B. Roller; 13/16" Wide Housing-Peachtree
So I made some measurements and found that the D1609 roller assembly matches what my door has. The roller I have has the 1 1/4" roller and the housing is 13/16" wide and the mounting looks just like mine. So I have found the roller assembly I need, and now can go and purchase a pair of them. Always get the pair, even if the other roller assembly looks good, you see what a pain it is to get these apart so get them both.
Next thing is the rail, a worn rail will make new rollers work like crap. You should inspect the rail. here is an example of a badly worn rail. This is caused by frozen (bearing Seized) rollers.
Note the roller coaster look and the splintered look. If you do not fix this type of problem you will not be happy with your roller replacement.
There is a fix for this that is actually simpler and easer than the roller assembly replacement>
We sell a Sill Track Rail/Topper sometimes called Rail/Cover or Cap for 6' 8' and 10' doors.
It's real easy to put one on. With the operating door out make sure of the length being correct, and slightly crimp each end of the Rail/Topper and place it on top of the old rail, making sure it is good and secured on each end and has completely laid down on the old rail. Then simply put operating door back on. The Stainless Steel Rail/Topper is very ridged and give you a very good and smooth surface for your new rollers to ride on. In fact I usually install a Rail/Topper when I replace someone's roller assemblies simply because the stainless steel surface give so much better riding surface for your rollers.
Installing the Rail/Topper/Cap
Rail Topper/Cap installed
If You Have any Questions PLEASE contact us!!
NOTICE PLEASE READ:
Beware of those who are selling the Track Topper/Track Cap/Rail Topper/Rail Cap names usually seen when talking about this product. Who are cutting these down in 3' or 4' foot sections to reduce shipping costs for Long Packages. The whole idea is for a continuous clean solid piece from one end to the other so that the weight of the very heavy doors are fully supported across the length of the rail. If you cut this very ridged piece in half you will have two pieces flopping around and not getting the complete support that is needed for the doors. That's why we only offer full 6' 8' and 10' sections. The shipping charges are higher, but you get a complete product that does the job that it was designed to do.
- Heavy-Duty Steel Ball Bearing...
- Translucent Plastic Top Guide 1/4...
- Clear Showcase Stick-On Finger Pull
- Ball Bearing Wheel Assembly for...
- 1/8" X 1/8" X 3/8" Pile...
- Showcase Wheel Assembly 52-675
- Plastic Top Guide Black D652
- Standard Nylon Wheel NON...
- BY THE FOOT Zipper Pile...
- Black 1-1/2 Inch Long Rubber...